Great British Pastry baking - at 12th scale of course!

The UK is in the grip of the Great British Bake-Off! The final, with three contestants, airs this week. For the first time ever, there was an historic theme during the series. Namely, a Victorian bake week which aired a few weeks ago.  The six surviving bakers were asked to make a decorated, "raised"  game pie. 

A raised pie is one where the pastry sides are raised up to enclose deep contents.  Early pie makers had to raise their pies entirely by hand. Easily moulded hot water pie-crust had been used since medieval times by the best "pastillers" or pastry chefs. 

But it was the invention of the sprung metal pie form or mould, which later came to give the pastry sides of the pie support. This allowed a finer pastry to be used and elaborate decoration incorporated.  

Back to the Bake-Off and one contestant, fire fighter Matt, had even managed to source an authentic pie tin dating from 1850. He made a good game pie, but this did not prevent him from going out that very week.

1:12 scale Victorian dollshouse raised game pie by MedievalMorsels

Victorian dollhouse 12th scale game pie, historic miniature food

MedievalMorsels makes quite a few raised table and smaller pies. But, inspired by Bake-Off, it has added a Victorian raised game pie to its range too!

MedievalMorsels one inch dollhouse scale ornate pies

 In her book “Food in History” Reay Tannahill noted that a mixture of wheat and rye (maslin) flour was found to be best for pastry making - neither giving too soft a dough (as rye did) or too brittle a dough (as wheat did). The wheat with rye mixed flour made it possible to mould either a simple, or a highly ornate pie crust. 

Dollshouse dining! 1:12 ornate pie crust with leaves

In Medieval Northern Europe the usual cooking fats were lard and butter. Lard made a stiff pastry and allowed a solid, upright case or pastry coffin to be formed. Et voila! the “raised” pie-crust container, ready for its filling!

A simple individual meat pie, one inch scale dollhouse miniature food

MedievalMorsels' 12th scale medieval or Tudor meat pies or chewitts

No medieval cookery books gave detailed instructions on pastry making, this knowledge was assumed to be passed on by Medieval cooks. 

Gilt fleur-de-lys decorated table pie, dollshouse miniature food

According to the food historian Peter Brears the pastry dough would have been mixed, kneaded and shaped as empty crusts - large and small - on the work-table, and then briefly dried off or hardened in the ovens. For custards and the like, the fillings would be poured into the empty shells whilst still inside the oven. But for most other recipes they were returned to the work-table, filled with a cooked filling, any lids set in place, then put back in the oven for perhaps only 20 to 40 minutes. Crusts and fillings could all be prepared in advance, then quickly baked immediately before they were required. Just like the ‘blind baking’ technique we use today.

 Medieval, Tudor heraldic decoration in gilt on 12th scale table pies

Pease please Louise!

Dollshouse 12th scale miniature food, shelled peas by MedievalMorsels

Back in the summer, when modelling the broad bean, so-beloved of peasants in the Dark and Middle Ages, MedievalMorsels could not resist modelling some field peas too. Although, I must be truthful, they did send me a little mad.  Modelling individual shelled peas at 1/12th scale  is not for the faint hearted! Or short-sighted.

Tudor dollhouse food, one inch scale tub of peas

Medieval dollshouse kitchen, 1:12 half barrel of dried peas

 It was a sunny day so I repaired to the garden with all my "making" stuff. And some of my sister's stuff. She has been kind enough, ever since I first tarted making miniature food for the dollshouse, to lend or give me supplies and tools and more. But modelling outside, never again! 

Peas for a pease pottage, pease porridge or even pease pudding!

  However still and sunny a day seems, there is always an unexpected puff of wind. A real nuisance for miniaturists, whether they are attempting to photograph or model small items. They are apt to move! The wind took my featherlight, former fastfood container with painstakingly rolled peas and deposited them on the grass. If I bother to go outside to make miniatures again I'll weigh everything down with a brick. That should do the trick.

Store MedievalMorsels dried peas and beans in a ceramic crock pot!

 There are some toxic elements in the coloured polymer clays used by we "professionals", so the only upside to my mishap was that my peas were far too small for resident marauding wood pigeons to find and eat amongst the blades of grass. I don't fancy the worms' digestive chances though! 

We cannot underestimate the importance of dried peas, as well as broad (fava) beans, in Dark and Middle Ages diet of northern Europe. And England in particular! The grey field pea had tough, inedible husks and was grown to produce dried peas for  winter stores. The peas were luckily suitable for both human and animal consumption and, as a bonus after threshing, the vines and pods were used as cattle fodder.

More rarely, and wastefully, the field peas might be husked and split before cooking - giving the “split pea". But usually it was stored whole, and such dried peas provided the bulk of the Medieval peasant family’s essential winter food provisions. Along with some cured bacon from their slaughtered pig. Richer household put more expensive ingredients into their pottage pot, but  this would not prevent them from enjoying addition the staple pottage of peas and bacon.
 

12th scale dollhouse food, cauldron of pease pottage with bacon

  The ancient nursery rhyme “Pease porridge hot, pease porridge cold, pease porridge in the pot, nine days old” illustrates that peasant cottage and manor house were likely to have a pot (kettle, cauldron) of pease porridge/pottage "on the go" in winter. “Pease” was in fact the singular form of the old English word, later becoming abbreviated in modern language to “pea”.

The Isle of Ely, or Eeley?

A recent edition of the "Kitchen Cabinet" on BBC Radio Four came from Ely, often referred to by locals as "The Isle of Ely".  This small city In Cambridgeshire is not so very far from where I grew up as a child.  So, of course, I was very interested in the programme.

The Isle of Ely is so-called because in the Dark and Middle Ages, and in later times too, it stood elevated literally as an island. Topographically the land that was settled lies a little higher than the surrounding marshland of "The Fens" which, to this day, lie below sea-level. 

Earliest school history lessons had taught me about heroic Hereward the Wake, who hailed from The Fens and hunkered down in Ely. He  fought successful skirmishes with the Normans invaders for as long as he could, effectively he was a guerilla fighter, using the marshes to cover his tracks. Quite literally! We were told in the programme by a local historian that the Normans resolved to lay siege to the Isle of Ely and starve him and his supporters into submission.

MedievalMorsels' tubs of live wriggling eels for a period dollhouse, one inch scale

Buckets of 12th scale eels for a Tudor, medieval dollshouse

Which brings me to a second point. Ely is a strange name, there is no doubt, and it is so similar to the word eel. It really does reflect the fact that Eels were abundant in those Fenland marshes. In fact, Ely paid its taxes to the reigning Medieval monarchs by way of barrels of eels! Revenue from the sale of eels, we were told in the radio programme, paid for the building of the very impressive Medieval Cathedral, and much more besides. 

Eels for a 1:12 dolls house kitchen scene, miniature food by MedievalMorsels

But the process of laying siege and starving the inhabitants of Ely into submission must have been a protracted one - after all I am sure the locals knew a hundred or more ways to catch and cook eels. Rather like the Portuguese and the 365 dishes they can cook with their national fish - bacalhau, salted cod.

But back to the eels. MedievalMorsels models eels in wooden tubs. Ideal for the one inch scale Medieval or Tudor period dolls house kitchen or storeroom. Many of my clients say how ugly they are - I think the mean the eels not the models thereof! Judge for yourself. Is it because my eels are just too realistic? And eels do resemble snakes which can trigger a primeval fear in some. Or is it that we instinctively realise eels are just too slithery and therfore difficult to prepare for the pot? And to modern tastes, are they fatty and unpalatable even after all that effort? 

What would you do if you met these eels and their catfish friend modelled by MedievalMorsels?

Well if so, how about salted cod instead? MedievalMorsels can oblige on that score too!

MedievalMorsels makes 12th scale salted cod for you period dolls house kitchen scene

I have swum three quarters of a mile in a swimming race in the River Great Ouse at Ely. Well it was a long time ago, I was 13 years old. My worry then was not eels, I did not think of that!  My worry, because my friend Linda Plowright and I had been teased about it by the older swimmers, was pike hiding in the shadows under the bridges! I recall that I tried to swim under the bridges, and past trees which cast scary shadows on the river surface, as fast as I could! After all the Great Ouse is a wide, muddy  river - full of Fenland silt and clay - where you have no chance of knowing what is going on beneath the surface!

Pie bakes

MedievalMorsels has been experimenting with different styles of Dark Ages, Middle Ages and later periods of table pie for a period dolls house. Some pretty ornate,  which could serve as a centrepiece on a feast table, and others that would serve as a table pie in a rich merchant or a noble's home.

1:12 scale pies with gilded cross by MedievalMorsels

Medieval, Tudor pies for a dollhouse feast centrepiece!

One inch dollshouse food, pies!

MedievalMorsels' leaf decorated Georgian, Tudor pies

  
On the very popular BBC TV programme "Great British Bake Off" this week, week five, the competition revolved around pastry making challenges - a franzipan tart, flakey pastry vol au vents and a Cypriot speciality cheese pastry parcel. 

But the historical interlude during the c programme  focused on Denby Dale in Yorkshire, which holds the Guinness Book of Records world record for the largest meat and potato pie. The world beating pie was baked in 1988 to celebrate the passage of 200 years since the C18th, when Denby Dale's first giant pie was baked in 1788. Incidentally that was to celebrate the recovery of King George III from his mental illness. And it was that George who "oversaw" England's loss of colonies in the North America. So we can sumise that around the same time that an important War of Independence was raging in the "New World", on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean in the "Old World" giant pies were planned and baked! Conjure with that if you will!

Denby Dale also a baked behemoth pie in 1846 to celebrate the repeal of the Corn Laws, which heavily taxed the price of grain. That pie was eight feet in diameter, a veritable giant for its day. Apparently the Master of Ceremonies fell into it!

In 1877, this time to celebrate Queen Victoria's 60 years Golden Jubilee on the throne, another pie was baked. But this one went sour and had to be hastily buried in quicklime. I can imagine it held quite a few carcasses worth of meat -  yuk, smelly! 

Luck was not with the Denby Dale community in 1928 when their bumper pie got stuck in the brick oven. There was more success in 1964 when the   monster pie fed 30,000 people. 

Which of MedievalMorsels' mini pies at 12th scale is a winner for you?

Pastry leaf decorated 12th scale pie

One inch scale dolls house Medieval, Tudor pies

MedievalMorsels celebrates with hand raised pies

Bringing in the beans!

12th scale fava beans

12th scale dollhouse miniature food by MedievaMorsels, beans!

MedievalMorsels had a bit of fun modelling one inch beans for the period or modern dollshouse kitchen last week! The results were quite colourful and have, I am pleased to say, met with some approval from the miniaturist community!

MedievalMorsels' one inch scale bowls and tubs of beans

The bean cycle according to MedievalMorsels, dollhouse miniature food

Dried lentils and other peas, beans or "pulses" have a long tradition in mankind's food history. Neolithic ancestors of modern man ate them, and so did the ancient Greeks. 

And from literary sources, the Old Testament , we are told that Esau came in from his fields so weary and hungry that he sold his twin brother his birthright for "red pottage....of lentils." 
 
The Romans so prized pulses that they appear as ancient family names - fabius (broad bean), lenticulus (lentil),  or cicero (chickpea). Who, except a student of language, would have believed this? 

Tudor dollhouse food, 12th scale fava beans for a dollshouse kitchen scene

Ground Almond soup, could this have been a medieval favourite?

Following my post yesterday on Spanish hams and their Medieval ancestry I have discovered something even more exciting in terms of its Medieval food heritage. And all whilst enjoying my holiday here in Gibraltar. Staring at me from a chilled foods counter in the "Eroski" supermarket was ground almond soup! Intended, like its cousin vegetable gazpacho soup, to be eaten cold this thick pureed concoction is made with very few, but all natural ingredients. 

The ingredients of "El gazpacho de almendras ajoblanco" , an obviously still popular dish from rustic Andalusia, are (and I am testing my abilities to read Spanish here): water, almonds, lemon juice, virgin olive oil, ground bread, vinegar wine, salt, and garlic. And all are staples from Medieval days too...cooks then  were fond of ground breadcrumbs as a thickening agent. 

I am a little surprised the soup has only 7% almonds - now I am a little less excited since I thought it was almost purely an almond milk concoction! Certainly in Medieval times water would not have been added to the mix unless the whole batch was to be boiled.

Here is my discovery, in a Tetrapak of course. Its not a dish I shall be replicating for the Medieval or Tudor dollshouse though. I think it lacks a little presence!

Almonds were a very versatile cooking ingredients whose flavours was much appreciated by the medieval palate. They were put to many uses in both sweet and savoury dishes, certainly they were very important in Medieval cookery. Almond milk was used in the range of “white food” or blancmange dishes incorporating shredded white meat or fish. Used with eggs or butter and various flavourings it made sauces that counteracted the excessive saltiness or smokiness of preserved meat or fish. Fried whole almonds were popular as a garnish for many dishes.

Cultivation of almonds, which are related to apricots and cherries, goes back into pre-history. The food historian Alan Davidson notes that today the almond is actually the most important commercially produced nut. It was introduced to Europe from Asia, via Spain, by the Phoenicians in the 8th century. Well, here in Gibraltar at the southern tip of Europe, and surrounded on three sides by Spain, those trading Phonecians did came calling and they settled awhile leaving archaeological evidence, including fine glassware for which they were reknowned 

"El gazpacho de almendras ajoblanco" is starting to make historic and geographic sense now. My excitement levels are rising once more. And I have not even tried the chilled soup yet, maybe tomorrow for lunch...

Cured hams - an Iberican speciality

Whether you are a vegetarian or not, whilst in a bar or market cafe in Southern Spain you can’t help but notice the legs of ham hanging above you. Well I can’t anyway, with my  eager “modern medieval food” eyes wide open. Some hams, I notice, have white trotters and some, producing the superior quality “pata negra”, have black trotters - or at least black toes.

And then there are stacks of hams in the supermarkets all year round. In years gone by you might only have seen them in the supermarkets in the run up to Christmas, but why not celebrate any special occasion with “jamon serrano”?

Curing a hog’s leg with salt goes back to time immemorial. Cato the elder wrote over 2000 years ago in  “De agri cultura”  “On farming” as follows: “Spread salt in bottom of (my edit: very large!) jar, lay a ham cover with salt, lay another meat not touching, cover with salt. After five days, remove and reverse order hams are placed in. 12 days later remove hams, brush off salt, hang in a draught for 2 days. On the 3rd day clean with sponge and rub with oil (my edit: olive oil of course). Hang in smoke for 2 days. On the 3rd day take them down, rub in a mixture of oil and vinegar, hang in the meat house. No moths or worms will touch them.”

This method of curing the larger cuts of meat from swine (hogs, pigs) changed very little in 2000 years in today’s artisanal ham making - except the time allowed for curing is much longer - up to two years for a jamon serrano and up to 4 years for a jamon iberico. The curing process alters the flavour and the natural enzymes have longer to break down the tissues and make the ham mouth wateringly tender. Patience is rewarded!

History bears witness that the pig (hog or swine) produces the world's best tasting flesh, it is the only animal where a specific vocabulary has developed for its different meats - namely pork, ham and bacon. Pig meat of all three types was highly valued by all classes of Medieval society, and it was no exaggeration to say that every part of the animal was eaten. MedievalMorsels models ham legs and ham sides at 12th scale for your period or contemporary dollshouse, roombox or diorama. My online shop re-opens on 1 August after a short holiday break. take a look then!

The pig (Sus scrofa domesticus) is the oldest domesticated creature besides the dog. All pigs are descended from the wild boar (Sus scrofa). Bones from Turkey show human/pig association as early as 8000 BC, pre-dating man's cultivation of barley and wheat. This seems to disprove the commonly held theories first, that goats and sheep were the first domesticated animals and second, that man engaged in crop growing before animal husbandry. Pigs were, however, domesticated at different times around the world.